This is just a short post on some tricks I’ve learned over a few rides on the Methanol.
For one: the carbon saddle rail clamps I got for my saddle were actually spec’ed for a carbon seatpost + carbon railed saddle combo and not the Alu seatpost + carbon rails I should have gotten in the first place – the frustration was immense and called for tilt adjustments every few bumps in the road to prohibit the nose of my Romin from going somewhere it really shouldn’t. Make sure you get the right clamps 1st time to avoid dissappointment. I am yet to ride the new rails but I’m hoping Ritchey redeem themselves with the proper kit 🙂
Secondly I was having sleepless nights about cable rub on my head tube. The beautifully sculpted headstock bulges at the sides and puts itself right in the line of fire when it comes to cabling. My first attempt was an epic fail and I was slapping on clear patches like a tobacco addict. I even bought some aligator cable rubbers (the split kind are useless b.t.w and just fall off) which didn’t last long in the right areas. I lived in fear of my clear coat getting roughed up like a shaggy dog.
Since I had done a crossover cable-up job on my Oltre, but hidden internally, I took a closer look at the Methanol and decided to apply the same technique.
I had to change the length of the cable outer on both sides to get an even job of it, shortening the front derailer side and having to cut a longer piece for the rear derailer, luckily I had enough cable spare and left the inner long enough to thread through and pinch up.
I took the rear cable around the head tube and into the rear most cable stop, and the front cable around the head tube and into the foremost stop. Then crossed the cables on their way to the back stops and into the logical ports for each one. Another nice thing about the sealed Gore Ride-On cabling is that there is no chafing at the crossover, but even a bare system wouldn’t have any drag.
Whats left is a nice bulge on either side of the head tube as the cables are naturally kept clear of the carbon and paintwork under tension. It also keeps the bends nice and round to minimize the friction at any shallow angles.
Job Done 🙂